Often referred to as the “Paris of South America,” Buenos Aires is a charming city. It’s also a city of many contrasts. The beauty of its architecture, cobblestone streets, large parks, and wide avenues reflect on Argentina’s past as one of South America’s most robust economies. But, they are also tarnished by a decade and a half of recession, currency fluctuations, and an increase in crime. Tourists and locals alike flock to attractions like the San Telmo Sunday Market, where antiques and valuables from a more prosperous time are sold from folding tables, often for a fraction of their true worth. Colorful neighborhoods like La Boca offer a mix of dining and an active nightlife, combined with a certain amount of seediness that serves as a reminder of the ongoing economic hardships for many of Argentina's working class. In many ways, Buenos Aires feels like a city whose glory has faded just enough to be shabby chic, but not yet enough to be completely undesirable. It’s a city that requires tourists to step outside their comfort zone a bit more than one might expect, dealing with things like ATMs that are chronically out of cash, some of the most corrupt and dangerous taxis we’ve seen anywhere in the world, and a surprisng lack of infrastructure for things like wireless communication. Yet, it’s still a city I recommend visiting, because at its heart, Buenos Aires is full of culture, fine cuisine, wine, music, and art.